6• Remobina..Parfum Royal by Jean Patou Reconstitution of the perfume by Jean Kerléo 1997 Osmothèque
A Treasure preserved at the Osmotique of Versailles
Parfum Royal by Jean Patou
Jumbo - unique creation
Bottle designed by Michèle Teysseyre
Private collection GF
The oldest perfume ever recreated preserved at the Osmotheque of Versailles dates back to the first century. It is Parfum Royal, whose recipe appears in one of the thirty-seven volumes of Natural History, written by Pliny the Elder.
An essence that has twenty-seven constituents (generally, a perfume contains ten to forty, or more).
MY MEETING WITH MICHELE TEYSSEIRE
I met Michèle Teysseire in 1995, during a perfume fair at the Hotel Capoul in Toulouse. She had just lost part of her works, destroyed in a fire that had ravaged her artist's studio. The studio, located in the Chartreuse in a central district of Toulouse, was rebuilt. It is there that she continued to paint to the delight of a faithful clientele admiring her paintings. She will use fragments of her charred works to make new artistic creations.
Geneviève Fontan and Michèle Teysseire at the Parfum Art et Valeur exhibition at Capoul in Toulouse, 1995
Michèle Teysseire has an emotional way of inviting you into her projects and so, as a young associate publisher (Ed. Fontan & Barnouin), we entered into a timely editorial partnership, resulting in the release of a luxurious presentation combining a book on flavours and an exceptional fragrance.
Presentation box for the book Flavours and Scents of Ancient Rome and the perfume Royal
The presentation box contains the recipe book and the date-shaped bottle presented in a boxed set reminiscent of the date palm fruit transport crates. Michèle Teysseire, meticulous and perfectionist, wanted to participate in every step of the creation of the book, the box, the bottle and the packaging. The filling, the wrapping and the sealing with gold thread were carried out in Paris in the workshops of the House of Jean Patou.
The book Saveurs et senteurs de la Rome antique is a collection of 80 Apicius recipes, developed by Italian chef Renzo Pedrazzini. Each recipe is illustrated with a drawing by Michèle Tesseyre. This first edition was published by Fontan & Barnouin Editions. Le Parfum Royal is a perfume composed by perfumer Jean Kerléo, based on a recipe by Pliny the Elder (1st century CE), kept in the cellars of the Osmotheque in Versailles.
THE MEETING - JEAN DE MOÜY, MICHELE TEYSSEIRE, JEAN KERLEO
Jean de Moüy, Jean Patou's grand-nephew, managed the Maison Jean Patou from 1980 until the 2000s. Very sensitive to art and a lover of old books, which he collects with genuine passion, he acquired many paintings by the MT artist, deeply moved by his talent as a painter. So much so that one day, as a patron of the arts, he asked Jean Kerléo, the olfactory designer of the Maison Jean Patou, to design a perfume for the release of the book Saveurs et senteur de la Rome Antique. He then presented Jean Kerléo to Michèle Teysseire, who asked for the "impossible", i.e. a perfume that illustrates the 80 recipes of Apicius.
Jean Kerléo reports "When I was asked to make an ancient perfume, I first said NO, I already have trouble making modern perfumes. If it's to go back centuries, then it's illusory."
And then he said: Let's try it anyway!
And one thing leading to another, or from one wand to another, the Royal Perfume, mentioned by Pliny the Elder in his famous book Histoire Naturelle in book XIII, took shape, so to speak! Jean Kerléo encountered obstacles in the search for raw materials that had to be gleaned all over the world. As for the quantities that were not mentioned, he had to make multiple attempts to find the right dosage. Finally, after a year, through perseverance, driven by the desire to achieve his goals, Jean Kerléo succeeded in reconstituting the Parfum Royal. Today, the Parfum Royal is preciously preserved in the cellars of the Osmothèque and only comes out into the open for exceptional occasions.
I have always had an immense pleasure, -I could say to talk with Jean Kerléo- but I would say to listen to him. He has immense knowledge and willingly tells, without emphasis, fascinating stories about his life at Jean Patou and all sorts of tasty anecdotes that I should have written down to tell you today.
The Royal Perfume, the first of all times, is a treasure for the Osmotheque of Versailles. This unique place in the world, founded by Jean Kerléo in 1990, has kept in its cellars the precious scents of the world's greatest perfumes since the first century.
If you go back to ancient Rome, Rome had the best tables in the world. Its cuisine was spicy and the presence of perfume could not go unnoticed. It was customary to perfume oneself, like an olfactory aperitif, just before sitting down to the table! Perfume was in a way the dominant "grain of salt" of flavours.
Parfum Royal, seems to have been developed for the kings of Parthia (formerly Iran). A perfume seems to be composed of 24 aromatics and 3 excipients. It is mentioned in the book of Paul Faure, Perfumes and Aromates of Antiquity.
It is in this book that Jean Kerléo was able to find the list of ingredients. One of his friends, Gilbert Julien, passionate about herbalism, helped him a lot in his research.
17 NOVEMBER 1997 - Inauguration of the Parfum Royal, at Jean Patou's house, 7 Rue St Florentin in Paris
In the salons of Jean Patou's private mansion, the inauguration of the book Saveurs et Senteurs de la Rome Antique and of the Parfum Royal by Jean Patou, reconstructed by Jean Kerléo, took place on 17 November 1997. A memorable event!
Photos of the evening at Jean Patou 17 November 1997
Parfums Art et Valeur magazine, 1997