7• Cadolle Since 1889 Luxury women's underwear for "ptit's et grande dame"


Cadolle Perfumes



Cadolle Amour en cage

Jasmin 1926 in its rare box


Polished black crystal bottle, the cut edges underlined with gold fluting. Nut cap with its lacquered brass ring. Box with calfskin covered flap in fuchsia colour with satin and velvet inside.



The first Cadolle fragrance was introduced in 1922 by the founder, Herminie Cadolle. 





Set for 4 parfums

Gardenia, N°9, Jasmin, Détente - 1928




 The workshops were located rue Mont-Thabor and the perfume factory rue des Laynes in Paris.


Cadolle perfumes were introduced by Herminie Cadolle in 1922. After the death of the founder, Margueritte Cadolle continued her mother's perfumery activity and created her first perfume line in 1926.


Installed at 14 rue Cambon, Herminie attracts a wealthy clientele with her made-to-measure products. In Herminie's wake, her granddaughter, Marguerite, launched a perfume line in 1926, as part of the launch of the fashion collection entitled Amour en Cage. The name of the perfume line is apt. Amour en cage was created in 1926, in various scents and bottle and box presentations. Everything happens upstairs and only the clients of the haute-couture of the chic underwear have the privilege to acquire the perfumes created for them, hence the rarity of Cadolle perfumes.


The luxury version Amour en Cage is offered to the best clients, among them duchesses, archduchesses, artists from the world of arts and entertainment. Another version is intended for haute-couture clients who wish to acquire it. A third, much rarer version with a flap box is also listed for the Amour en cage presentation of the perfume Jasmin.


Just after World War II, the Cadolle N°9 formula was sold to Paquin. Shortly afterwards, L'Oréal absorbed Paquin and the Cadolle N°9 formula with it. A little later Poupie Cadolle bought back N°9 from L'Oréal, which joined Cadolle Parfums in 1986. Since 2008 the production of N°9 has been stopped.


Cadolle - Set of 4 test bottles for Gardenia, Jasmine, N°9, Relaxation

c. 1928
















Cadolle Amour en cage - Ambre 1926

Apposite: detail of the face of a shutter of the box on which a cupid (symbol of love)









Cadolle Amour en cage - Ambre - 1926


in a cage is struck with iron

below bottle in its box





Cadolle

Présentation l' Amour en cage - version luxe Polished black opaque glass bottle, the edges with curvilinear cut edges underlined with gold gilding The four polished curvilinear faces, the name moulded and engraved in hollow on one face. Gold lacquered crystal stopper with its black lacquered brass ring. Box with four articulated sides held by a cord of trimmings. The design evokes the break with the corset, as for the name Amour en cage, it is also the name of a delicious fruit, the physalis, which has the shape of this corset-cage presentation.






Physialis

l'Amour en cage




In 1927, Marguerite Cadolle unveiled Le Bois Sauvage, an exceptional perfume for customers on the first floor. The rigid cardboard box is lined on the inside with gold-plated paper, while the outside is covered with a suedecloth covering in the colours of autumn, struck with a hot iron with a bucolic decoration representing a sinuous leafy tree, a bird of paradise perched on a branch.





Cadolle Le Bois Sauvage, 1927



Photography with a surrealist effect. In the background the perfume advertisement and in the foreground the original cover of the Bois Sauvage box that caps the advertising bottle.




Cadolle Le Bois Sauvage, 1927



Translucent glass bottle with slightly patinated satin branch decoration. The name in hollow on one side, and the mark in hollow on the other side in a polished cartouche.








Cadolle 1928Packaging having received the perfumes N°9 Gardenia and Magnolia












Herminie Cadolle

In 1871, Herminie Cadolle (1845-1926), a feminist activist, took part in the first movements claiming to be feminist and became close to Louise Michel, an anarchist activist and freemason with feminist ideas. After being arrested at the end of the insurrection, she was released a few months later.

That year she decided to leave France to settle in Argentina with her family.

Supported and encouraged by her husband and her only son, Alcide, she actively pursued her struggle until 1887.

Herminie Cadolle



She opened the first Cadolle boutique in Buenos Aires, specialising in women's lingerie, and quickly made a fortune. Back in France, she invests by registering a patent for the corset-bra and opens her first shop in Paris at 24 rue de la chaussée d'Antin, not far from Paul Poiret's.


In 1911, she moved to 14 rue Cambon for a vast multi-storey premises.



....

It was then that an idea came to her mind. A simple idea after all! A very simple idea.

Herminie transformed the banned corset into a much lighter undergarment that she called the corset-bra, which would later become the bra. She presented her invention at the Universal Exhibition in 1989 and convinced the Tout-Paris.




The invention of the bras

As soon as she arrived in France, Herminie put into action an idea that would fill her brain with insomnia. In 1898, she filed a patent for the corselet-bra, which would later be called the brassiere. Encouraged by the success of her invention, she took part in the 1900 Universal Exhibition in Paris and presented her creation to the visitors, who were convinced that it would free their ribcage from the shackles of an "obligation" that was about to pass. This must-have underwear seduces unconditionally. Mata Hari, Coco Chanel or the Duchess of Windsor... adopted this new feminine mode of support.



Création Cadolle






The frozen body - the Belle Otéro (1868-1965) knows something about this! - No twists, no languorous postures, no room for the wandering hands of eager gentlemen. If she hadn't invented it, Chanel would have!



La Belle Otéro, a singer, cabaret dancer and great courtesan of the

Belle Epoque








In 1910, Herminie opened a workshop-boutique in Paris, rue de la Chaussée d'Antin, partly run by his daughter-in-law, Marie. It will be a real success, she employs nearly 200 workers who manufacture lingerie for the subsidiaries in London, New York or Saint-Petersburg.

As the time to expand the store grew, Cadolle moved to 14 rue Cambon in 1911. For more than 6 generations of women, the House of Cadolle has held its throat high!



Memory



If you're passing through Paris, you might go to Chanel! Then stop in front of 4 rue Cambon and realize that in the 1920s, a very refined and wealthy clientele used to flock to Cadolle to have very elegant lingerie made. Les Belles of the 20's dreamed of being dressed, so to speak, by Herminie Cadolle.

It is in this prestigious artery that in 1911 Herminie Cadolle, a strong-willed, hard-working and determined woman, settled in! She chose this address, conscious that this location was the ideal place for her activity.


END



© Geneviève Fontan, 2020



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